Little Big Burger piqued our interest a few months ago as we watched the construction of the red and white burger joint slowly make its way to fruition in early March. Although I troll the Portland foodie blogs regularly, I hadn’t learned much about Little Big Burger except for the fact that it took over the old Noodles restaurant (Aw, shucks) in the Pearl District and that some of my Facebook friends jonesed for the little ground round as much as Jason does for In-N-Out.
So, while stuck at Little Big Burger’s nearest major intersection -- the godforsaken corner that is 39th and Division -- during peak traffic hour, I (yes, illegally) pulled out my iphone and looked LBB up. Much to my surprise, it’s a Micah Camden venture.
For those of you not in the foodie blogosphere or culinary cache, Micah Camden is sort of like the Terrence Mallick of the film world; a quiet, unassuming man of incredible ingenuity, eye, talent and wonder as a director, every movie he’s directed, from Badlands and Days of Heaven to The Thin Red Line and Tree of Life, his most recent. While his repertoire is but a couple of handful of movies over the last decade, every one throws him into the spotlight like an eternal directing legend.
Micah Camden is so similar: Quietly creating and directing many of Portland’s tastiest, unique and successful restaurants -- Yakuza, DOC and Boxer Sushi. Just like T. Mal, M. Cam is no longer able to quietly craft his next culinary digs behind the scenes; he’s too big of a name (And thank goodness for that)! The fact that he’s about to open yet another LBB is a testament to that.
The crisp appeal of the red and white building, playfully decorated with enticing yet powerful words and art, is nearly impossible to ignore, whether you’re a kid, adult or hungry burger ranker. Among the three burger menu you’ll find truffle oil french fries, root beer floats, canned soda and perhaps the best of all, a long list of canned beers.
But enough geeking out. Let’s find out how the Little Big Burger stacks up to the Ten Hammandments.
Meat: The Contender -- A ¼ pound of Cascade Natural beef, local brioche buns, local cheeses, organic veggies and Camden’s catsup or a ¼ pound vegetarian burger made by Marie at Chez Gourmet. Price: $3.25, $3.75 with cheese, $3.50 for the veg.
Bun Quality: Jason (1), Amie (1)
That quarter pound patty is nestled between a little brioche bun, buttered and grilled to the perfect level of honeyed yellow rimmed with the occasional dark brown char. The bun doesn’t sweat in its wrapper, but stays buoyant, fresh and ready to take on all the toppings with gusto and might.
Meat Quality: Jason (1), Amie (1)
You can’t go wrong with Cascade Beef. Ever.
Made to Order: Jason (1), Amie (1)
Each burger (save the veggie patty) was served medium rare, as ordered: Pink yet warm on the inside yet magically crispy on the outside. Moreover, both of Jason’s came without onions, as requested.
Sauces: Jason (1), Amie (1)
Housemade, housemade, housemade. Your burgers, which come seductively slathered with aioli and special sauce, are perfect. Add on a squeeze of Camden’s Catsup (available at New Seasons, woohoo!) and you’ve got fireworks.
Quality of Accoutrements: Jason (1), Amie (1)
Organic onions, pickles, shredded lettuce and tomatoes (when in season) are so snappy they scream in delight with every attacking bite.
Add On Options: Jason (1), Amie (1)
LBB offers the usual -- bacon and cheese -- but takes the cheese to another whole level with four local options including Tillamook cheddar or swiss, chevre and Oregon blue cheese. And the bacon? Fried crispy but with a slight tooth that keeps you chewing on the salty dud with delight. The burger maestro working at the time recommended the Veggie WITH bacon and we already can’t wait to go back.
What It Comes With: Jason (0), Amie (0)
The truffle oil french fries are to die for, so much in fact that one evening as we were walking back home after a delicious and filling Pok Pok meal, we bopped into LBB JUST for the fries which come with both fry sauce and Camden’s Catsup. Unfortunately, they’re not technically a side dish that come with the price of the burger. However, at just $3 a bag, the salty, oily morsels are well worth the investment.
Meat Flavor: Jason (1), Amie (1)
A little salt and a little pepper and that’s it. And it’s a duo so dynamic I think upon first bite, even Batman and Robin would fall to their strength.
Presentation: Jason (1), Amie (1)
For a burger wrapped in compostable paper and tossed into a compostable brown paper bag, the presentation is perfectly Portland. Not a thing goes to waste (including the catsup and special sauce containers), which adds to ritual of shucking the small burgers from their shells.
Hit The Spot Factor: Jason (1), Amie (1)
We wish these were served during cocktail hour at our wedding. Damn it.
Bonus Pickle? 0
Total Score: 9
Overall Recommendation:
Those of us California transplants who moved up here, realized just about everything is way better and decided to stay, can’t help but agree that Little Big Burger is no exception. Down south In-N-Out Burger is hands down the best fast food burger you can get. Little Big Burger is just about the closest thing Oregon’s got to In-N-Out; small, simple menu, good ingredients, red and white branding. But as hard as it was to admit, in a head to head fight Little Big Burger kicked In-N-Out in the crotch so hard, it threw up a little. And LBB wins on four counts; 1. Beef: It’s just better, 2. Cheese: Real, local stuff, not American, 3. Bacon: No bacon at In-N-Out, 4. Beer: No beer at In-N-Out either. (And really, the last two would be enough for a win by themselves.) But aside from beating up In-N-Out in front of all its friends, Little Big Burger is an unassuming, cheap burger that can easily hold its own with the best burgers in town. Do yourself a kindness and hit that!
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